St. Louis: Travel Guide

St. Louis sits on the western bank of the Mississippi River, at the confluence with the Missouri River 15 miles to the north — historically the most important junction in the interior of the continent. Lewis and Clark departed from here in 1804 on the Corps of Discovery expedition. The city was the gateway through which most European-American westward migration flowed. Eero Saarinen’s Gateway Arch (1965), 630 feet of stainless steel catenary curve on the riverbank, is one of the most significant works of 20th-century architecture in the United States and the defining image of the city.

St. Louis has approximately 290,000 residents in the city proper — technically an independent city not part of any county, a result of an 1876 decision that has complicated governance and regional planning ever since — with approximately 2.8 million in the metropolitan area. The population peaked at approximately 856,000 in 1950; the city proper has lost roughly two-thirds of that peak population to suburbanisation. But the built environment from the peak years remains largely intact, producing an unusual density of fine Gilded Age and early 20th-century architecture in the central areas.

For visitors, the practical case for St. Louis is unusually strong: the city’s major cultural institutions (the St. Louis Art Museum, the Missouri History Museum, the St. Louis Zoo, the Missouri Botanical Garden) are mostly or entirely free to enter. Forest Park — 1,372 acres, larger than Central Park — hosts most of them. The Cardinals are one of the most successful franchises in National League history, and Busch Stadium is one of the best places in the country to watch baseball.

Getting to St. Louis

By air: St. Louis Lambert International Airport (STL) is approximately 14 miles northwest of downtown. The MetroLink Red Line runs from the airport to downtown (Civic Center station) in approximately 36 minutes for approximately $2.50 as of 2026. Taxi approximately $35–$45; rideshare approximately $20–$35.

By train: Amtrak’s Texas Eagle (Chicago–San Antonio) and Missouri River Runner (Kansas City–St. Louis) serve St. Louis Union Station (1820 Market St). Chicago to St. Louis approximately 5.5 hours; Kansas City approximately 5.5 hours. Fares from approximately $22 with advance booking. Union Station is 2 miles west of downtown; a short MetroLink ride or rideshare connects.

By car: St. Louis sits on I-70 (east-west) and I-55 (southeast). From Chicago approximately 300 miles (4.5 hours). From Kansas City approximately 250 miles (3.5 hours). From Nashville approximately 310 miles (4.5 hours).

Getting Around St. Louis

The MetroLink light rail has two lines (Red and Blue) running 38 stations across 46 miles. The Red Line covers the airport–downtown–Clayton–Shrewsbury corridor; the Blue Line extends through downtown and the East St. Louis (Illinois) area. A single fare is approximately $2.50 as of 2026; a day pass approximately $7.50.

The Forest Park Trolley (free, seasonal) circulates through the park during summer weekends. Most Forest Park museums have free parking; downtown parking is approximately $10–$20 per day in garages.

St. Louis is a car-oriented city outside the downtown and Forest Park areas. The Soulard, Tower Grove, Cherokee Street, and The Grove neighbourhoods require a car or rideshare from most hotel bases.

What to See

Gateway Arch National Park — The Arch grounds (11 N 4th St) are free to walk; the tram to the top costs approximately $15 for adults as of 2026. Tram access is booked through a timed ticket system (gatewayarch.com) — book 1–2 weeks ahead in summer. The Museum at the Gateway Arch beneath the monument covers westward expansion history comprehensively. Open daily 9am–6pm (until 10pm in summer).

St. Louis Art Museum (SLAM) — 1 Fine Arts Dr, Forest Park. One of the finest free art museums in the United States, with a permanent collection of approximately 33,000 works. Strong in German Expressionism, pre-Columbian work, ancient Mediterranean, and American 20th-century painting. Special exhibitions typically $12–$20. Open Tuesday–Sunday 10am–5pm; Friday until 9pm.

Missouri Botanical Garden — 4344 Shaw Blvd, The Hill area. A 79-acre garden in operation since 1859 — one of the oldest continuously operating botanical gardens in the United States. The Climatron (1960, geodesic dome) houses a tropical rainforest. The Japanese Garden is one of the largest in North America. Admission approximately $15 for adults; children under 12 free as of 2026. Open daily 9am–5pm.

St. Louis Zoo — 1 Government Dr, Forest Park. Consistently ranked among the top five zoos in the United States. Free admission to most exhibits (some special experiences require fees). Open daily 9am–5pm (until 7pm in summer).

Neighbourhoods

Soulard is St. Louis’s oldest residential neighbourhood — French Creole row houses built in the early 19th century, now housing bars and blues clubs. Soulard is where the St. Louis blues sound — distinct from Chicago or Delta blues — developed. Hammerstone’s (2028 S 9th St) and Broadway Oyster Bar (736 S Broadway) host live blues nightly.

The Loop (Delmar Blvd, University City) is a 5-block commercial strip of independent restaurants, record stores (Vintage Vinyl), and the St. Louis Walk of Fame. The Tivoli Theatre (6350 Delmar Blvd) is an art house cinema in operation since 1924.

Cherokee Street is a 2-mile Mexican American commercial corridor with taquerias, markets, antique shops, and a growing arts district around Cherokee and Jefferson.

Hotels

Angad Arts Hotel — 3550 Samuel Shepard Dr, Grand Center Arts District. A 146-room art hotel where every room is themed around a different emotion. More than a gimmick: the art program is serious and the location in the arts district is convenient for the Fox Theatre and Powell Hall. From approximately $150–$250 per night as of 2026.

The Cheshire — 6300 Clayton Ave, Clayton/Central West End. A Tudor-style boutique hotel in a 1923 English village-style complex, 3 miles from downtown near Forest Park. From approximately $140–$230 per night.

Marriott St. Louis Grand — 800 Washington Ave, Downtown. A 1917 building converted to a full-service Marriott, 917 rooms, connected to the America’s Center convention complex. From approximately $140–$220 per night.

The Last Hotel — 1501 Washington Ave. A former shoe factory (International Shoe Company, once the world’s largest) converted to a 142-room boutique hotel. The building’s factory history is incorporated into the interior design. From approximately $130–$210 per night.

Huckleberry Finn Youth Hostel — 1904–1908 S 12th St, Soulard. A waterfront-area independent hostel close to the blues clubs of Soulard — one of the few budget options within walking distance of a genuine neighbourhood. Dormitory beds from approximately $30–$45 per night as of 2026.

Drury Inn & Suites St. Louis at the Arch — 711 N Broadway, Downtown. A reliable mid-budget chain option within a few blocks of the Gateway Arch and Busch Stadium. From approximately $85–$120 per night as of 2026; breakfast included.

Restaurants

Pappy’s Smokehouse — 3106 Olive St. The most nationally recognised BBQ restaurant in St. Louis. Memphis-style ribs (dry-rubbed, no sauce during cooking) rather than KC-style, but equally deliberate. Sells out daily; arrive by 11am. Ribs approximately $22 for a half rack as of 2026.

Pastaria — 7734 Forsyth Blvd, Clayton. Gerard Craft’s Italian restaurant; the pasta is made in-house daily. Pasta approximately $18–$28. Open Tuesday–Sunday for dinner.

Vicia — 4260 Forest Park Ave. Michael Gallina’s vegetable-forward fine dining, named for the fava bean plant. Tasting menu approximately $95–$120. Open Tuesday–Saturday for dinner.

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard — 6726 Chippewa St. Open since 1929; the concrete (thick frozen custard mixed with toppings) is a St. Louis institution. Line forms by 7pm in summer. A regular concrete approximately $5–$8 as of 2026. Cash only. Seasonal (typically March–January).

Bogart’s Smokehouse — 1627 S Ninth St, Soulard. A smaller, neighbourhood BBQ counter — pulled pork, brisket, and smoked turkey on simple trays — that has developed a strong local following. Plates approximately $12–$20 as of 2026. Opens at 11am and sells out most days; arrive early.

Practical Notes

The St. Louis Cardinals (MLB) play at Busch Stadium (700 Clark Ave), directly behind the Gateway Arch. The stadium is designed to frame views of the Arch from inside. General admission tickets from approximately $15; field-level from approximately $65. The Cardinals have 11 World Series titles — one of the most successful franchises in National League history. The stadium fills; book ahead for weekend games.